I'm in the midst of designing a customizable 2-stage pump. It will be a combination of off-the-shelf and 3d printed parts. Basically it's an acrylic tube, which can be bought in wide variety of sizes, plus o-rings to seal/press fit the printed parts.
Currently I'm trying to decide the "angle of attack" for the opening, but can't make a decision. So I thought maybe some of you have an opinion about it as experienced pumpers. Any feedback would be highly appreciated.
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cma_throw wrote: ↑Wed Jun 19, 2024 5:16 am
I need more info before deciding.
What are you planning for opening diameter and second stage diameter?
Will that first stage be a “break apart” design so you don’t get stuck in the tube?
The design is fully parametric so I just can type in the desired diameters and the models will be generated. For starters I think I will go with 80mm and 180mm as this roughly equals the dimensions of my STJ I want to replace with this. I have good experience with this size as it doesn't restrict growth in any way and can hold a decent amount of hot water. But yeah after ~2,5h or so I need to change to a bigger tube before I get stuck.
About the "break apart": no not for the moment. First I want to get the tolerances right to get a seal. I have a design in my head which I might do later.
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So I have decided to go for this design for the first try:
It's the easiest and fastest to print as it doesn't require any support material. Parts are ordered (180mm and 150mm cylinders plus fitting o-rings) and should arrive next week or so. When I have the tolerances right to get a proper seal I will try the 'flat' option and see how it pumps.
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The smaller, body inlet end would be about 3.75" diameter with no/minimal 'tube' length, just rim then into the taper; the bigger chamber end - whatever fits the chamber.
And- if this could be split to enable simple, easy, Quick!, exits, that would be close to divine! This may require some 'tube-type' lengths for strapping/clamps...
.... Actually, thinking about it. There could be a hinge on the non-tapered 'top'....
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I also thought of offsetting the opening from the main chamber but decided against it. I think you would quickly press against to top and restricting growth.
For a split design I'm thinking screws. So you have sort of a collar where you then slide the cylinder into. No need for any fancy geomtry as the two parts are exactly the same. And no lip or anything so that it's also smooth in the outside expect a few holes
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nohapony wrote: ↑Sat Jun 22, 2024 11:39 pm
I (...) think you would quickly press against to top and restricting growth.
For a split design I'm thinking screws. ...And no lip or anything so that it's also smooth in the outside expect a few holes
While yes, you would have the cock almost immediately hitting the top, my focus is balls; cock is secondary. Leaving maximum space for balls, and having the taper to make the leg spread more comfortable would certainly meet my expectations
Re the split... Whatever works to minimize-eliminate any leakage gets my vote!
Reduce your pictures' sizes => Reduce your carbon footprint
Very cool. There are many 3D printers out there that could do this but you can't see through it..it's not clear plastic. Are there ways to make them clear?
shyguy_8121 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 24, 2024 7:20 am
Very cool. There are many 3D printers out there that could do this but you can't see through it..it's not clear plastic. Are there ways to make them clear?
There are ways to achive transparent 3D prints. You just need an industrial grade printer. There's one from Stratasys which can produce clear parts. But it will set you back a couple of hundred thousands.
Check out my 3D print creations for you kinky needs at https://www.printables.com/@KDxGP Like my creations? Consider buying me a coffee at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/KDxGP. Thank you!
I'm excited to see this and try it out. If I'm understanding it correctly, we'd be printing the bottom as a solid piece and attaching it to a tube, and then printing the top as 2 pieces and securing them together?
I've tried with a 2 piece design (I kept getting stuck), but struggled with getting a good seal on it - both where the unit met the tube and joint where the collar came together.
I also tried with screws, and a second time with a slip fit, bit were difficult especially when wet pumping. Perhaps something with a hinge and clamp may work better.
