forums.newart.com

jerbear62 wrote:I know you quit using plastidip but what about parrafin? You could add as many layers as you want. Just a thought....Jer

The only problem I could see with that is when Mrs. Stryfe pumps in a warm tub....do you think it would melt?

Talk about conforming to the pressure! Lol

X

Hey Stryfe. How much lube do you guys use when pumping? We have been using quite a bit but we aren't getting her minora to pull out much.

DELETED

hoser wrote:Hey Stryfe. How much lube do you guys use when pumping? We have been using quite a bit but we aren't getting her minora to pull out much.

We use just enough to slick the inside of the cup....

sarinty wrote:Replying to some of the q's asked earlier.
I sometimes have to drill glass and I find making a ring of silicone, letting it set. then pooling car coolant into this stops the glass heating so much. It can then be removed. Also glaziers silicone sealant ( calk for you americans ) can be applied generously to make a seal. It can then be shaved down to shape. Strong, permanent and soft..ish.

I've tried caulk and silicone....and it came out badly nearly everytime....guess I don't have the patience for it

A word about drilling glass... The best tool for such is a diamond impregnated drill bit. And in this application a “core” drill is most suitable. I won’t dispute that glass can be penetrated with a standard high speed drill, buy it is very risky as the glass’ temper is much greater then the drill and likely to cause the cutting edges to dull.

The drills in the photo can be found on eBay http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dl ... category0=. The most common size for the female quick disconnect is 10mm, but as you can see there are many other sizes avail to suit your needs. As for the actual drilling a slow speed of around 250 rpm, preferably in a drill press with a “very” light feed (let the tool do the cutting), is recommend. Water is the most effective coolant. Once a groove is cut, keep it filled with water to wick away the cutting debris (any oil is too thick). Finally, in order to minimize the break out, you have to “feel” the cutting action and back off slightly until a nice clean hole is produced. There will be some irregularities around the hole, but there shouldn’t be any fissures or “spider webbing” to cause concerns. Attach your fitting with a good quality silicone sealer and you’ll have an air/water tight hook up. I have found that lamp repair components (see other photo) are perfect for this.

Glass by nature holds up quite well in compression (vacuum) but not so well in tension (pressure). So it is important when using glass for pumping to check for any cracks/fissures before using. The concern is not so much when creating a vacuum , but if back pressure is needed to aide in removing the jar, that is when the glass is susceptible to fractures (on that I speak from experience).

-D-

DELETED

Very glad to help Sarinity! When information is shared....we all benefit. Feel free to ask questions if you have any.

Thanks for the info
2 pack apoxy resin what a great idear to seal the hose conection,

jerbear62 wrote:I found the best way to drill into glass was to add a bit of oil as you drilled, it pulls out the glass and helps to keep things cool. I use 3 in 1 oil but you could probably use any you want.
Give it a try...
Jer

For heat control I fill to just above the drill point when drilling in the side.
Most of my stuff is drilled on the side. Not necessary to always be exactly in the center of bottom.
I drill most of mine just above the bottom on the side. Makes access to the barb when use much easier.
Especially if I'm suing it on myself.

What section of lowe's would you find the barbs in?

Krak

Does anyone know where to buy the quick disconnect fittings in DickBulbers second pic?

bule84 wrote:Does anyone know where to buy the quick disconnect fittings in DickBulbers second pic?

I get mine from McMaster-Carr....

.